A Breton Tune

Although Breton music has been in existence for as long as this region of France has been called Brittany, the folk music associated with this North West corner of France has only acquired a higher profile since the early 1970s. This is due in part to a broadening of horizons to include more genres. Breton Pop music was introduced as early as the 1960s by such people as Alan Stivell with his Celtic Harp; but this has evolved into groups which have been greatly influenced by the American rock and roll. Groups such as Tri Yan an Naoned (The Three Johns from Nantes) or Soldat Louis, who modify the traditional style into a modern presentation.  We have attended two open air concerts when Soldat Louis have appeared at Perros-Guirec and although the raw Breton folk tunes still remain an alien tone to our ears, the modern renderings by groups such as these are much easier to identify with. Today there are Breton festivals that resemble a pop festival held anywhere else in the world; except for the addition perhaps of a Breton instrument or even Scottish bagpipes.

The traditional forms of the music are strongly supported and it is impossible to live in this region without taking part in at least one celebration with Breton folk music during the summer. I've found that Breton music has a very unique sound, distinct from other Celtic regions; it could not be described as melodic but definitely loud. The bombard, a member of the oboe family, is frequently incorporated in instrumentals; and certainly lives up to its name with its high-pitched sound overpowering all the other instruments. The music is of course the staple diet at a Breton fest-noz (night festival as opposed to a fest diez, day festival), both of which would require you to learn at least a few basic dance steps to be able to join in. On these occasions be prepared at each interval during your meal to be vigorously whisked away from your table into long bouts of dancing; which involves weaving in and out of other bodies on the dance floor while remaining linked (usually just by the little finger) to the persons on either side of you. It is a form of country dancing that should not be undertaken by the faint hearted as you will find they are a demanding exercise! The dances arranged in couples are called “bal de…..”  dance of followed by the name of the place where it originated from: such as the Bal de Dinan or Bal de Jugon. The dances arranged for groups of four, for the more advanced or more fool hardy, are usually performed at a more elaborate and faster pace. The music and festivities reach long into the early hours of the morning, the music and the dancing and the inexhaustible energy of the Bretons; requires stamina and fortitude to tackle these events.   

We have found the distinct differences of Brittany to the other regions of France are in no other way expressed more adequately than in the choice of instruments and singing style known as kan ha diskan; a song and counter song or chant and response which is more familiarly called a cappella. The Breton style falls somewhere between the Gregorian chant and Barbershop music but to the unseasoned ear it can sometimes sound discordant. The rhythm is repetitive and the reason for this is to accompany the steps of la Danse Bretonne.

Another musical experience not to be missed is more usually found in the villages nearer the sea. A backdrop of gentle waves and a setting sun provides a picturesque scene for a very different musical evening harking back to the history of Brittany’s links to the sea; it is an evening of ‘les chants de Marin’ (sailor songs).  The sea shanties and ballads inevitably describing shipwrecks are sung by groups of men and are often haunting renditions accompanied by the accordion. The more familiar shanties encourage the crowds gathered to join in the choruses and this is done with great enthusiasm; with a little bit of cunning we have managed a few easy phrases that are endlessly repeated. The songs are colourful and are usually performed by equally colourfully attired performers and a relaxed family atmosphere is a relaxing way to spend the evening

 We decided on arriving in Brittany to dip into the Breton style of music and learnt right from the start it was an acquired taste. Invited by Breton neighbours to accompany them to Nantes to attend a Celtic Music Festival being held at the Beaujoire Stadium of sports we eagerly agreed to go.  It was an enlightening experience and I would definitely recommend taking a cushion as the seats are hard and you will remain in them for at least three hours!  To a packed stadium the variety of the performers could not be criticised, but music is a personal choice. The violinists, along with the Welsh choir; who we considered were by far the best, were not as well received as the top billing, whose performance left my husband and I wondering if we were hearing the same music as our Breton friends! A less than endearing figure dressed in black swaggered onto the central platform and sang in a high pitched voice while tinkling a few notes on a piano. We evidently needed to develop our appreciation of the Breton music!

Scottish-style pipe bands called a bagad (bagadoú plural) and use a similar array of instruments including the Scottish highland pipes. The Scottish highland pipes are called biniou bras and although the sound is the same I have been reliably informed it is played entirely differently. The performances of the Irish harp are a welcome softening of tone amongst the mêlée of noise during the festivals or perhaps it is just the more melodic simpler tune I am more comfortable with.

All of this, along with colourful costumes and groups from all Celtic related societies (Scotland, Ireland and Wales) as well as Galicia, Cornwall, Canada and perhaps more surprisingly the Caribbean and India. It is the measure of the extent folk music and dancing traditions reflect the global popularity by the crowds of spectators and tourists that gather at this time of year all over Brittany. There is the Interceltic de Lorient, a two day festival des Hortensias (Hydrangeas) at Perros-Guirec, the St Loup festival at Guingamp; which is the oldest in Brittany, and the town of Lannion presents Les Tardives, four nights of world music in July and August.

It is essentially a masterful annual display of the Breton culture, which cannot (and should not) be ignored if you wish to better understand the character of the people that has shaped this part of the hexagon. However, after further time spent observing the musical celebrations we have come to the conclusion, it is not a question of just listening to a few songs and musical performances because they are essentially Breton; and to truly understand and appreciate it you have to be Breton.